Report By: Sudhir Sharma

Join Jullie and Gary Murray on their incredible 14-day wildlife adventure in India. Experience their journey as they explore the tiger-rich parks of Central India and the rich biodiversity of Jim Corbett National Park. 

Tour Duration: 14 Days (28 April to 12 May 2023)
Destinations: Pench – Umred – Sanjay Dhubri – Panna – Jim Corbett National Parks

Sighting Summary:
– 01 Tigress and 06 sub-adults Tigers in Sanjay Dhubri Tiger Reserve.
– 02 Tigress and 06 cubs in Panna National Park.
– 01 Tigress and Tuskars in Jim Corbett Park.

It was last week of March 23rd; Jullie & Garry Murray gave us mail regarding wild life trip to India. They have been to India 30 years back and went to Sundarban’s safaris which is one of the toughest Habitat for Tigers.

They intended to opt for Ranthambore & Corbett Park initially. But as Ranthambore booking system is anti-tourists now days so we never thought about it. As booking for safaris in Ranthambore open one year in advance so it is not genuine to think for it. At least 08 to 09 months advance planning required these days.

As we have every day sightings update from Central India park so we started working on Central Indian parks like Panna, Pench, Sanjay Dhubri, Corbett etc.

We first gave a sketch itinerary to them. They were amazed to see these options. Later we fixed a google meet with them to explain every Park status with reference to number of tigers, habitat type etc.

Finally, Pench, Umred Karhandla WLS, Sanjay Dhubri, Panna & Corbett were selected for the trip.

28 April 23: Reached Nagpur & Pench

They arrived by late flight from Singapore.  After sightseeing of Delhi next day, we took overnight train for them from Delhi to Nagpur. One 30 April morning they reached Nagpur by Rajdhani express (premium train). Later driven to Pench 01:30 hrs.

30 April 23: Zone Touria no sightings.

After lunch their first safari in Pench was without any luck for Tigers. The main reason was sudden change in weather. Cyclone Mocha’s pre conditions were responsible for this change.

01 May 23: Zone Touira (Pench National Park) no sighting

Morning safari rain started on & off so there were no sightings. The impact to Cyclone was across India. Moderate rain was noticed from Delhi to Nagpur.  After safari next destination was Umred Karhandla Sanctuary (01:30 hrs.)

So, two safaris in Pench were without tiger sightings.

02 May 23: Zone Gothangaon (Umred Karhandla Wildlife Sanctuary) no sighting.

There were two safaris on 02 May 24 but Cyclone had become more stronger and rain increased more than Pench. The climate was getting worst by every hour.

03 May 23: Zone Karhandla no Tigers but Wild dogs sighted.

The last safari in Umred Sanctuary was totally washed away by Cyclone Mocha’s rain. 

But wild dogs were seen in Umred sanctuary which are very rare in day time. So, we had to content with them only.

Two destinations without a tigers sighting put us under pressure. This has never happened to any of our clients. But we cannot control nature. We experienced an old proverb – Man proposes, God disposes. Now Sanjay Dhubri and Panna National Park were only two good parks left in the itinerary form Tiger Sighting point of view. But it was raining in these parks as well due to Mocha’s impact. So, we did not want to miss any chance. So, we decided to send one our senior Naturalist for these parks.

04 May 23 Afternoon: Zone Dhubri (Sanjay Dubri Tiger Reserve) 03 sub adult tigers.

I was in Agra, took overnight train to Jabalpur & reached Jabalpur in the morning. Julie & Garry, they too arrived in Jabalpur. We met at station & had some breakfast. Later we drove to Sanjay Dhubri National Park. Both of them were very patient even without tiger sightings.

Sanjay Gandhi NP, is 90 kms from Bandhavgarh towards Panna. We reached our hotel & after lunch got ready for the afternoon safari. The weather was clear & rain had stopped completely.

As Bandhavgarh was sold out for their dates so we took Sanjay Dhubri without any doubt. The park is so amazing. This is one of the finest places to enjoy safaris as the park is never over crowded due to a smaller number of jeeps & very few people know about it. Those who even know about it do not believe for Tigers. But this place is real jungle with real tigers.

 I, Ajeet & Subhash were part of the team. We started afternoon safari after lunch. Just after entering the gate there is river which we need to cross by jeep. Every one stops the bank of the river for view which is very beautiful on both sides.  Ajeet took binocular & scanned the left side suddenly sound came two tigers sitting in the river bed. They were very far but visible with binoculars only. After few minutes one of the tigers stood & start walking towards us. Everyone can see them now but still far. Now photo taken. BUT the Bad luck regarding tiger sightings was surely broken!

The Dhubri zone where most of safaris conducted is surrounded by river Banas all around. There are villages still inside the park.  This is live place to understand Tiger human interaction level of highest grade. As we crossed the river & entered the park Subhash noticed some warning call of monkeys. Both Ajeet (driver) & Subash (guide) are working since the safaris officially started here. We decided to stop there. Soon a sub adult tiger appeared from the bushes in front of our jeep. After few minutes a forest department jeep came near and told us that this tiger wants to enter the village which was 500 mtr away. So, they used fire crackers to divert him back to the park. This was every unique experience for Julie & Garry. Their Faces were brightened with such great sighting after 05 safaris.

Later This sub adult tiger stalked for long to kill wild boar. It took 45 minutes for him to move 50 mtr.
It was lovely day after very bad start Tiger Trip.

05 May 23 Morning: Zone Dhubri (Sanjay Dubri Tiger Reserve) 03 subadult Tigers very close

This morning was Great Day for us. We saw 03 sub adult tigers. There was an incident few months back in Sanjay Dhubri that Tiger T18 died & left 03 cubs’ orphan. Later her sister T28 who too was having 03 adopted them. She took all care for them as her own cubs. This incident brought this Park into lime light in media. Many people have taken 07 tigers in one frame during October 22 onwards.

05 May 23 Afternoon: Zone Dhubri 03 subadult tigers very close

Afternoon safari also good we managed to saw T28 The Mausi Maa (mother’s sister in Hindi is called Mausi)

06 May 23 Morning: All 06 subadult cubs of T28 spotted.

Today was our last safari in Sanjay Dhubri. We started as usual, just crossing the river to enter the park suddenly a very sigh sub-adult tiger crossed our jeep. Perhaps he spent his night cross the river in field and was returning back to park. He was so sigh that he did not pose for us even for a second. We entered the park and drove for fifteen minutes. Suddenly Sambhar deer made warning call. Sambhar’s call is the most confirm call for predators. He was looking towards hill. He was constantly making calls. We decided to wait at that point. Everyone in the jeep was told keep quiet for next 15 minutes. Suddenly all sub adults i.e 06 cubs (12 to 15 months old) started coming down one by one. It took 01:30 hr to cross all them before our jeep. There were total 03 jeeps for safaris in the park. The more silent you will be in the jungle the better sightings you will get!

So, Sanjay Dhubri compensated our missing sightings of Pench and Umred Karhandla.

07 Different tigers & sightings in every safari really boosted our moral!

06 May Afternoon: Zone Madla (Panna National Park) P151 on bank of river Ken.

After morning early sightings, we left the park early & drove to Panna (05 hrs.) Reached Panna National Park. Had quick lunch & started afternoon safari in Panna. We were lucky to saw P151 in Judy area of the park. This tigress is having 04 small cubs. It’s a lovely water hole in Madla zone. So, Panna gave a good start from the very first safari.

What impresses about Panna?

The vegetation of Panna is very similar to Ranthambore regarding denseness. So, this Park is as good as Ranthambore. 15 years back Panna almost all tigers. New Tigers were brought from Bandhavgarh & other MP’s Park. Now doing good enough.

The terrain of Panna is with Hills & Plateaus which gives three tier system for tigers to move on. The advantage of Panna is that one side beautiful Ken River flows & other side is the park area. So Little rains does not impact sightings in Panna as compared to other flat parks where it becomes difficult to move if it rains for 01 hr only.

07 May 23 Morning: P151 with 04 cubs.

This morning, we decided to find T151’s cubs in her territory. Last evening, we saw the mother & our guide Rakesh Shiv Hare, told us that 06 May morning safari he saw them. So, our focus was on cubs only.

We decided to scan the whole territory of T151 but also regularly checked Judy water hole in intervals. After 01 :30 hrs suddenly sambhar deer call started & we stopped our jeep & turned back again. After driving back for 10 minutes we saw many jeeps waiting. We too stopped & wait patiently suddenly P 151 came down from hill. She was growling for the cubs. After few moments we saw all 04 tiny cubs (hardly 03 months olds) coming out to small stream to greet their mother. What fantastic sighting it was. This was best small cubs sighted by me season 2022-23 in any of the park.

07 May 23 Afternoon: P141 with 02 cubs.

In the afternoon safari Manoj decided to track P141 in the Piper tola area of Panna. We just stopped for few minutes at Judy area for P151 ‘s family but they did not come out. Perhaps T151 might have arranged a kill for cubs & had taken them to different place. Pipertola is nice grassland area in Panna.

It was almost 04 :00 pm when reached the area of P141. We are waiting for some calls as this is huge grass land area. Nothing happened & later we decided to check the entire grassland. We started to circle the whole grass land. We were driving every slowly suddenly we saw a bold tigress 141 siting in the middle of the road.  We did not get too much closer & gave her proper space. After 15 minutes she roared & two sub-adults cubs (16 months) came out of the small stream. Actually, there was pond / Water hole down the stream & cubs were playing in that water body.

This day also turned out to be Great day!

08 May 23 Morning: Zone Madla (Panna Tiger Reserve) no sighting

The last safari in Panna was without sightings. We had all good sightings done in first safaris. This day the weather was cloudy and I understood that tigers could be tough. As we entered the park little rain started but stopped after 15 minutes. We did not stop and kept on driving. This day Rakesh decided to show us vulture point. This place has good density of Vultures nest and sloth bear & leopards. Since it is on the top tier to Panna. This place is very beautiful.

We returned from Park and had quick lunch. Later drove to Janshi rail station (03 hrs.) from Panna to Board train to Agra.

Taking train makes your journey comfortable the taking car for whole Panna & Agra which is 400 kms. By train you just need to drive on 180 kms. Train in this section are premium trains.

09 May 23 Morning: Sunrise at Taj & later drive to Corbett

Julie & Garry had been to Agra before but this time it was a stopover visit for Corbett. We had night stay in Agra. Morning sunrise of Taj & later started for Corbett (06 hrs.)

10 May 23 Morning: Zone Garjia (Jim Corbett National Park) with wild Elephant.

Corbett is a huge park with great difference of vegetation in its different zones. We did not book Dhikala zone for night stay as it was sold out.

Corbett offers night’s stay opportunity for clients but very limited inventory so it very difficult to get confirmed. Only Dhikala & Bijrani zones have good sightings records of tiger.

Corbett is very beautiful from scenic point of view but equally very dense. Very rich in birding, with 600+ different species of birds. We never consider Corbett as Tiger sighting park except with Night stay option. If you want, see tigers then you must add at least one other park with your itinerary if you are taking day visit safaris in Corbett.

Anyway, we started our safari in Garjia zone. After entering in park, we saw a huge tuskar. He was not in good mood saw we maintained proper distance with him. Our guide was very good in birding & we enjoyed a lot of different birds.

10 May 23 Afternoon: Zone Jhirna (Jim Corbett National Park) with wild Elephants groups.

Afternoon safari was in Jhirna zone, was little far from our hotel but good zones. We saw two mongoose fighting. More tuskars greeted us with comfort.

11 May 23 Morning: Zone Jhirna with Tigress.

This safari was again in Jhirna zone. Firstly, a teenager tuskar blocked our road for 20 minutes. Later entered the park & started searching for a tiger. Saw many pugmarks (fresh) on roads. Then decided to wait near the water hole. There were around 12 jeeps in a row, waiting for the tiger. After 30 minutes waiting just turned back to check the back side. Suddenly a very young tigress just crossed the road from our back side.  We turned our jeep & saw the tigress moving on the main road. This was unbelievable that tigress dodged all jeeps. But our Corbett also gave us glimpse of the big cat.

11 May 23 Afternoon: Zone Dehla (Jim Corbett National Park) with Birds.

Afternoon Safari was in Dehla zone & we did bird only as the jungle was quiet. No alarm calls. But birding is so rich here that sometimes 03 hrs are felt sort for it.

12 May 23 Morning: Zone Durga Devi (Jim Corbett National Park) with Birds

This was the last safari of our trip. We went to Durga Devi zone. The most beautiful zone after Dhikala. So dense that you cannot feel sun light at ground even in the afternoon. Beside all these so many small streams for running crystal clear water. Crossing wooden bridges on streams reminds of so many movies.

After this Manish from Delhi office dropped (05 hrs.) both of them to Delhi airport to fly back home.